Francisco Little is a South African writer living and working in Beijing. He spends his time trying to understand Chinese culture and keeping his chopsticks sharpened.

One of the first adverts visitors see when arriving at Guangzhou’s Baiyun International Airport is a Bank of China billboard, proudly proclaiming "Here to help you!"

So what's unusual about that, you are probably asking. Of the five smiling faces beaming down at the stream of passengers, the first face is an African. You don't see that anywhere else in China. It's an early indication that the country's manufacturing capital is now home to a thriving African community, whose exports have become big enough for the city to sit up and take notice.

Downtown Guangzhou is heaving and the humidity level has raced past unbearable. In the heart of Chocolate City, as it is know by locals, a four square km area that accommodates the majority of Africans, lies the cavernous Tang Qi Foreign Trade Garment City, a wholesale shopping arcade on Guangzhou Xi Road and one of three big markets frequented by African traders.

Inside it's as if Christmas has come early. Clothing lies strewn in endless heaps along the narrow aisles between small shops. Noise levels reach record decibels as raucous traders shout the odds, and within 10 steps offers of jeans, shoes and some obscure looking jewelry have been made. A quick survey reveals many shops are African-owned, with Chinese businesses making up the numbers.

Visa conundrum

Nigerian trader OK, (34) who declined to give his full name, is one of countless Africans buying garments and daily commodities cheap and selling back home at a healthy markup.

"I can buy jeans here for $3 a pair and sell them back in Nigeria for $20,” said OK. He said most garments are factory rejects, meaning they have slight fault lines, but declined to say what his turnover is.

African traders either buy direct from factories and sell to other Africans, or deal through a Chinese agent, said OK. He said while most traders were from Nigeria, there were many from Mali, Kenya, DR Congo, Ghana and Liberia.

Crouched on a pile of 'Levi' jeans in his stall and casting furtive looks about, he explained how tough things have become since the death of one of his countrymen who died on 15 July, sparking off a street protest by hundreds of Africans in the city. The man allegedly died while fleeing a police raid for illegal immigrants and leapt from a two-story building.

"Business is down this year because of the financial crisis and also because many people here with expired visas don't feel safe," he said. Also many of the Africans here live in back alley accommodations, sometimes three or four to a room, so it's easy for police to raid, he said.

The visa issue is a topic that comes up every time in conversation with African traders and is a very sore point.

Several complained that the 30-day visa they are issued by authorities is inadequate and inconvenient for business purposes, as they need to fly back home and return after this period.

"The expense eats into our business," said Cameroonian, Michaelis (29) (not his real name) who buys Chinese motorcycles to use as taxis back home. "Some visas are extended, while others were not. It seems like there is no clear immigration policy for us black people," he said, declining to say what visa he held.

With business down and the pressure of illegal stay, it's a tough life said Michaelis. He said the immigrants from each African country have set up committees to help deal with issues and collect donations for funerals and weddings. It helps keep a sense of identity. But despite the visa problems we have here, there are still more opportunities in China than back home, he said.

On page two: illegal immigrants and the African Diaspora in Asia.

Page: 1 of 4 - next